Martensenkehoe7973

Marcolin, G, Faggian, S, Muschietti, M, Matteraglia, L, and Paoli, A. Determinants of climbing performance when finger flexor strength and endurance count. J Strength Cond Res XX(X) 000-000, 2020-Aim of the study was (a) to compare finger flexor strength and endurance among climbers and nonclimbers; (b) to predict climbers' level of ability using climbing-specific strength tests and prolonged fatigue protocols. 17 advanced climbers (ADV), 17 intermediate climbers (INT), and 15 nonclimbers (NOCLIMB) performed a maximal finger grip test on a climbing-specific device, a maximal handgrip test, 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E1), a suspension test on a bar till exhaustion, and again 20 intermittent isometric maximal contractions (E2). Strength values were normalized to body weight (%BW). The handgrip test failed to discriminate ADV from INT. Maximal finger flexor strength differed among ADV (59.90 ± 9.42 %BW), INT (46.75 ± 8.40 %BW) and NOCLIMB (36.40 ± 6.51 %BW) (p less then 0.0001; ηp 0.586). ADV showed the best suspension time (58.55 ± 14.87 seconds) followed by INT (32.55 ± 16.87 seconds) and NOCLIMB (17.20 ± 14.30 seconds) (p less then 0.0001; ηp 0.563). ADV showed the best endurance performance in both E1 and E2. The highest correlations with climbers' ability scores were obtained with sport-specific tests (maximal finger strength, r = 0.60, p less then 0.0001; bar suspension, r = 0.69, p less then 0.0001) and at the highest level of fatigue (E2, r = 0.74, p less then 0.0001). Strength and endurance gain more importance in determining climbers' ability if assessed with finger specific tests and after prolonged fatigue.Pearson, J, Spathis, JG, van den Hoek, DJ, Owen, PJ, Weakley, J, and Latella, C. Effect of competition frequency on strength performance of powerlifting athletes. J Strength Cond Res XX(X) 000-000, 2020-Powerlifting (PL) requires athletes to achieve the highest possible "total" weight lifted across squat, bench press, and deadlift. Athletes compete multiple times per year; however, it is not well understood how often PL athletes should compete to facilitate maximal strength performance. This study investigated the effect of competition frequency on strength (relative and absolute) in PL athletes over a 12-month period. Results across all male (n = 563, mean ± SD; age; 28 ± 10 years, body mass; 89.3 ± 19.3 kg) and female (n = 437, age; 31 ± 11 years, body mass; 70.1 ± 15.8 kg) PL athletes were collated. Total competition scores were used to calculate absolute and relative strength for each competition. Linear mixed models with random effects, and effect sizes ± 95% confidence intervals compared competition frequency and total score for (a) all, (b) male, and (c) female competition entries, respectively. The association between total score at each competition was assessed with Pearson's correlation coefficient for the same independent variables. Results demonstrate greater absolute strength at competition 2 for all athletes (5.1% p = 0.043 d = 0.16) and males (2.9% p = 0.049 d = 0.15). For females, absolute strength was greater at competition 5 compared to 1 (12.0% p = 0.001 d = 0.65) and 2 (9.6% p = 0.007 d = 0.50). Weak positive correlations for relative strength and number of times competed for males were evident between competitions 1 to 4 (r = 0.070-0.085, p = 0.003-0.043). For females, 3 competitions weakly correlated with absolute strength (r = 0.106, p = 0.016). PL athletes who compete multiple times per year are more likely to achieve higher totals; however, there is an upper limit to the number of competitions (4 per year) that seem to allow a performance increase.Torr, O, Randall, T, Knowles, R, Giles, D, and Atkins, S. The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climbers' isometric finger strength. J Strength Cond Res XX(X) 000-000, 2020-Isometric strength of the finger flexors is considered to be one of the main physical determinants of sport rock climbing performance. We set out to determine the test-retest reliability and criterion validity of a low resource maximal isometric finger strength (MIFS) testing protocol that uses a pulley system to add or remove weight to/from a climber's body. check details To determine test-retest reliability, 15 subjects' MIFS was assessed on 2 occasions, separated by a minimum of 48 hours. Body mass and maximum load were recorded on both occasions. Intra-class correlation coefficients (ICCs) between visits for all variables were very good (ICC > 0.91), with small bias and effect sizes-particularly when expressed as a percentage of body mass (ICC = 0.98, 95% confidence interval 0.93-0.99). To determine the criterion validity of MIFS and climbing ability, data of 229 intermediate to higher elite climbers were compared. Pearson's product moment correlations demonstrated good agreement, again particularly between total load when expressed as a percentage of body mass and climbing performance (r = 0.421-0.503). The results illustrate the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of MIFS in intermediate to height elite climbers from an ecologically valid, climbing specific test that only requires equipment found at most climbing walls. This low resource test protocol for the assessment of isometric finger strength has wide-reaching utility, for instance when assessing strength before and after a training intervention or when prescribing load intensities for exercises aimed at improving maximal finger strength.Jiménez-Reyes, P, Casado, A, González, JE, and Rodríguez-Fernández, C. Influence of hurdling clearance on sprint mechanical properties in high-level athletes. J Strength Cond Res XX(X) 000-000, 2020-Short hurdling races are sprint races in which athletes must also clear 10 hurdles. Assessing the force-velocity (F-V) profile in sprinting has been found useful for implementing individualized training programs and determining the mechanical effectiveness in force application. This study therefore compared the sprint mechanical F-V profile between flat and hurdle conditions to distinguish which mechanical capacity (i.e., maximum force [F0], maximum velocity [V0], or maximum power [Pmax]) is required to optimize performance in hurdling races. Twenty-two athletes (10 men and 12 women, aged 22.4 ± 3.6 years old) competing at the national and elite performance levels conducted 2 maximal sprints of 40 m in both flat and hurdle conditions. F0, V0, FVslope, Pmax, and decrease and maximal ratio of horizontal force (DRF and RFpeak, respectively) were assessed for each condition.